Moments before Oscar de la Renta's show began on Wednesday afternoon, J.Lo threatened to upstage the proceedings. In a killer black Oscar cocktail dress, she arrived with entourage in tow, sending the photographers into a shooting frenzy.
Now that's power.
"It's all about women right now," the veteran designer told me backstage. "They're finally at a point where they can be who they want to be." His vision for spring was a barrage of beautiful dresses, with Dominican It model Arlenis stealing the show in a strapless, shimmering silver gown - a shining example of the kind of high glamour we all deserve to be strutting.
With the U.S. presidential race heating up, the talk at New York Fashion Week was all about female actualization, personal choice and possibility. So it's fitting that the collections for 2009 are the most eclectic and creative I have seen in years.
"The challenge is in casting a wider net," Jeremy Laing, a Canadian who shows in New York, speculated of the trend toward more diversity. Laing's own collection was innovative, filled with slashed charmeuse pieces that pull apart, allowing them to "stretch." There were striking digital prints by Canadian artist Calla Haynes and the silhouettes were architectural, with layering making for flow.
Jack McCullough and Lazaro Hernandez, the duo behind the Proenza Schouler label, put a hi-tech shine on an eighties-inspired look, with big rounded shoulders, jumpsuits and harem pants. "Women don't come to us for a black turtleneck," McCullough reminded me. "They want those special pieces."
Those special pieces included laser-cut dresses and attention-grabbing accessories: metal-wedge shoes that looked like they fell out of a toolbox. Holt Renfrew's Barbara Atkin called it the ultimate urban collection for a new generation. "It feels so international - the kind of clothes you'd wear to a Beijing disco."
Narciso Rodriguez dished out more architecturally inspired options for his devotees. "I'm embarrassed to say how many Narciso pieces I own," Julianna Margulies confided. "But I keep wearing them all again and again." Claire Danes, another long-time Narciso fan, told me she appreciates the designer's intellectual sensibility. His wildly varied looks included a black-and-white splatter-print charmeuse dress, a silk-crepe black toga, a nude beaded cocktail dress and crystal-studded evening dresses that had flowing chiffon skirts but bodices that resembled ornate, sparkling breastplates.
"There's something wonderful that he does for women's bodies," actress Debi Mazar observed.
Optimism was evident in many of the collections. "Some may disagree, but I think elections are optimistic," Michael Kors said. The king of all-American glam used lots of red, white and blue, with sunny splashes of yellow in his feel-good collection.
"I was also really looking forward to the Olympics, which didn't disappoint. So the collection has a real athletic feel to it as well."
Bold stripes, polka dots and checks figured in the equation, which was largely composed of sexy, streamlined silhouettes. The Beach Boys' Good Vibrations set the tone for fun pieces like a sporty anorak worn with a full skirt, a crimson patent-leather "scuba" jacket, a madras sheath, gingham clamdiggers, a navy gabardine jumpsuit teamed with a striped cotton pullover and gunmetal crushed-lamé track pants. Giant glossy bags pumped up the fun factor in this upbeat collection that seemed timeless but ultimately fresh.
Timeless was also the operative word for the recently resurrected Halston collection, staged as an installation at the Museum of Modern Art. "Halston is a lifestyle," explained the label's creative director, Tamara Mellon of Jimmy Choo fame.
And so, for spring, Halston riffed on dramatic yet wearable pieces, many in easygoing silk jersey. The collection oozed comfort and elegant ease. Vibrant colours abounded, and the bags, boots and shoes were especially hot. Movie mogul Harvey Weinstein - who, along with a strong Canadian contingent headed by Toronto businessman Earl Rotman, is one of the major investors in the label - looked pleased with how the brand had resurfaced, and is working on producing a documentary on the late Halston.
Those who can afford to indulge in wearable art turn to California sisters and self-described nerds Kate and Laura Mulleavy, better known as Rodarte. Natalie Portman, a front-row guest, has a deep appreciation for their artistic references. For spring, the sisters played on the notion of decay, with loose mohair knits that looked pulled apart and perforated leggings along with soft leather mini dresses and bomber jackets. Their hand-dyed silk tulle had a shredded look and their textural mix, which often employed mesh, lace and chiffon, was impressive.
Also in a crafty vein, Tia Cibani, who grew up in Vancouver and holds the creative reins at Ports 1961, looked to her roots for inspiration.
"This is my ode to Emily Carr," she explained. Titled Beloved of the Sky, the collection was poetry in motion, a beautifully executed array of imaginative pieces employing frayed yarns, crochet, laminated silk, mesh lace and even rubber. The tone was both romantic and rustic, from a salmon pink iridescent tunic to a red satin skirt dripping with purple ribbons to a cream twine lace jacket. Necklaces made from copper and yarn and colourful popped balloons added an air of whimsy.
But the star of the week was Marc Jacobs, who remains fearless when it comes to change. "He's brilliant!" Lauren Hutton raved post-show. "He totally gets where we're at as a society. This is about how we're really suffragettes!"
Although Hutton read political implications into Jacobs's collection, it's unlikely the designer meant his stylings to be taken literally. If so, we'd all be running around looking like Eliza Doolittle at Studio 54.
His story for spring, which he sent down a catwalk covered in upright, mirrored slabs to Gershwin's Rhapsody in Blue, was a lively mélange of both the exotic and familiar. Jacobs took a wildly layered approach to the season, with rich brocades and metallic fabrics wrapped over ruffled prairie skirts, many in plaid.
Straw boaters and patchwork handbags played into the popular notion that women today want unique pieces. Stripes and hot hues punched up the playfulness.
"I really wanted to explore a variety of eras and fabrications," Jacobs said. "You know, everyone always seems to see something different in my show. You can take the collection to mean whatever you want it to."
Jeanne Beker is the host of Fashion Television.
10 trends for spring
Jumpsuits
Harem pants
Silver and copper finishes
Oversized bags
Layers
Dresses
Cigarette pants
Geometric prints
Saturated hues
Architectural shapes