French houses are on a quest to redefine modernity and romance: Myriad stories were told on the fall 2008 Paris runways last week, as femininity and individuality continue to be celebrated in bold and sophisticated ways. Whether we're ready to embrace a midcalf hemline, wear gargantuan wedge shoes or don bizarrely cut pants remains to be seen.
Young talent took over the reins at two illustrious labels, offering up the week's most intriguing scenarios. Former Gucci designer Alessandra Facchinetti had her work cut out for her at Valentino. Hot off the heels of the master's much-buzzed-about retirement, the 35-year-old was understandably nervous about her offering. For the most part, she succeeded. Running the gamut from structured cashmere coats to ruffled eyelet lace dresses, Facchinetti managed to inject a sense of daring, sass and youthfulness into the Valentino sensibility without losing any of the femininity and attention to details for which the label is famous.
At Ungaro, the rejuvenation fell to Esteban Cortazar, 23. Not since a 22-year-old Yves St. Laurent took over the reins at Dior in 1957 has such a young talent been given such an opportunity. "What, besides talent, has led your son to take over design duties at Ungaro?" I asked Cortazar's mother. "He has the Secret," she answered, referring to the power of positive thinking outlined in the bestseller by Rhonda Byrne.
Indeed, Cortazar, a Colombian-born Miami native who staged his first fashion show at the age of 15, told me that he has been visualizing this level of success since he was 10. Just how long he will stay on remains to be seen: Three designers have already tried to take over where Emanuel Ungaro left off, to no avail.
No wonder Cortazar played it safe. His reserved collection was composed of mostly pale and earthy tones, save for a few shots of fuchsia in the form of a silk jacket, drop-crotch pants and a hand-knit mini-dress. There was ample draping and chiffon to address the Ungaro spirit, and a few pretty, if reserved, prints.
What a difference experience makes: With muses such as Milla Jovovich, Maggie Gyllenhaal and Sofia Coppola cheering him on, Marc Jacobs confidently sent a sculptural vision down the Louis Vuitton runway, complete with enormous wedge heels. Starring muted shades and interesting folds and bustles, the sharply tailored collection was reminiscent of his own eponymous label for fall, and played into the growing appreciation women have for pieces with intellectually challenging appeal - though many may have an aversion to midcalf hemlines.
"Ultimately, women are making their own minds up about what they like and don't like," Jacobs said. "If you don't like the bustle, get rid of it. It's all about personal expression."
While a few subtle bags did surface, a desire not to detract from the clothes - to instead get back to the essence of fashion - was evident.
The sentiment was echoed at Chanel. Karl Lagerfeld's fall fantasy was staged around a giant merry-go-round featuring gargantuan accessories instead of painted ponies. "Everybody already knows that Chanel is famous for its accessories, and does great bags, so that's a reminder," he said. "The accessories will always be there. Now, it has to be about the clothes."
With the diminutive Olsen twins and the gorgeous Rihanna in the front row, Lagerfeld's high-low vision unfolded as a symphony of silhouettes, mostly in black and white. Skirts went from micro-mini to maxi, paired with long cinched jackets and cut-away coats - short in front, ankle grazing in the back. Fabrications ranged from shredded denim and distressed tweed (explained as a new irreverent approach to luxury) to quilted jacquard and lace. It was a celebration of possibilities for all ages.
Stella McCartney's version of luxury was all about stylish comfort - not a surprising take from a mother of three. She went bold, with voluminous felted wool coats in shades of grey and roomy eyelet lace gowns. Bulky sweaters made you want to trek to windswept Scottish moors, while graphic print knits, featuring coats of arms, made you want to cozy up by a castle fireplace. Ultrahigh wedge shoes illustrated McCartney's desire to play with sculptural proportions, and her micro-mini cocktail dresses were loose, yet sexy. Several coats and jackets had a strong architectural feel.
Alexander McQueen called his show The Girl in the Tree, staging it around a large, wrapped trunk. But it was far from a "green" collection. The garments McQueen sent out employed highly sophisticated couture techniques, from gold embroidery on feathered dresses in yellow and red to opulent velvet coats. A lush ermine cape and duchesse satin evening coats added a regal air to the tour de force collection. The pièce de résistance was an ivory tulle dress sporting two black lace peacock appliqués.
While Jean Paul Gaultier dished out wild and crazy fur for his own label, the horsy set who swear by Hermès can look forward to luxurious basics from the designer for fall: black velvet jackets, croc blazers and cozy shearling coats.
Hits of exotica appeared in the form of Asian-inspired silk prints, which surfaced in skirts, dresses, bags and boots - even a jumpsuit. There was also enough chiffon and fringe trimming to give the collection an East-meets-West bohemian feel. "The Hermès woman is a modern-day gypsy," Gaultier said. "It was fun to walk the line between basic practicality and exotic romance."
John Galliano also brought a far-out context to his own label: He was inspired by the "Pleasure Dome" of Xanadu. Incense wafted through the air, reflecting ponds sparkled and a gold Buddha rotated on the floor. Lucy Liu and Kanye West arrived at the last minute to see an offering rife with fur, double-breasted jackets, coats with a vintage vibe and chiffon skirts and pants. It all made for a hodgepodge of ideas.
But as Galliano said backstage, in fashion, one can never have too many of those.
Jeanne Beker is the host of
FashionTelevision and the editor-in-chief of FQ magazine.
Top trends
Enormous wedge heels
Chiffon everything
Pale shades, especially grey
Mini, even micro, dresses
Sculptural lines
Black and white
Royal accents
Modern gypsy
The short-in-front,
long-in-back coat
Eyelet lace dresses