Christina Hartigan, wine director at Stable House Bistro in Vancouver, removed U.S. wines from the bar’s by-the-glass list.Supplied
Canadian sommeliers are excited to be called upon to promote Canadian and international wines as alternatives to popular varieties from the United States. Since sentiments and access to American booze changed in March, conversations with customers at the table have increasingly focused on wines from local vineyards as well as bottles from other quality winemaking regions.
“People have been really open to recommendations, so it’s fun because we have the option to bring any style of wine to the table,” says Christian Hamel, wine director of the recently refurbished steak house Harbour 60 in Toronto.
In keeping with the classic steak house combination of robust reds with steak or fresh whites with seafood, Hamel is using the opportunity to direct guests’ attentions to ripe shiraz viogniers from Australia and crisp and refreshing whites made in Japan with the Koshu grape.
At Stable House Bistro, a wine bar in Vancouver’s South Granville district, wine director Christina Hartigan removed U.S. selections from the by-the-glass list, slotting in additional British Columbia labels as well wines from Spain, South Africa and Australia.
“We have 20 wines by the glass and they’re always rotating so there’s always something new to discover,” Hartigan says. “It was easy for us to increase the number of B.C. selections, which people responded to with enthusiasm.”
Sommelier Victoria Savoie at Montreal’s Boisbrand said demand is limited these days for American wines.Supplied
When Restaurant Asteur in Boisbriand, a suburb in the greater Montreal area, celebrated its Feb. 13 opening, it featured a 300-bottle list developed by sommelier Victoria Savoie with a focus on Burgundy, Tuscany and American wines.
By March, Savoie says those American wines were set aside to age in the cellar because of limited demand, and a pinot noir from Oregon she had selected for the seasonal tasting menu was traded for a German expression made by Jean Stodden.
While Savoie’s clientele historically enjoyed American wines, they have turned their attention away to other options, including products from Quebec vineyards, she explains.
“Now, each wine pairing menu includes at least one Canadian producer.”
We asked these sommeliers to share some of their go-to alternative wine picks.
What do you suggest as an alternative to classic American red wine styles, such as cabernet sauvignon and pinot noir?
“We’re lucky to have such a wide range of styles available from B.C. wineries, which easily compete. We have these big, full-bodied red wines made with cabernet and syrah that are an easy switch. For reds, I’d point to Corcelettes Syrah, Covert Farms cabernet sauvignon and LaStella Fortissimo, a merlot, cabernet and sangiovese blend.” – Christina Hartigan, Stable House Bistro, Vancouver
“To replace the Oregon pinot noir, I chose one from German producer Jean Stodden, who makes wines with finesse, aromatic precision and freshness which paired very well with the dish.” – Victoria Savoie, Restaurant Asteur, Quebec
Christian Hamel, wine director at Harbour 60, said guests have been open to recommendations for alternatives to their favourite U.S. bottles.Stefano.Nicu/Supplied
“I was worried that people would only want big tannic reds, but we have been able to present interesting wines from all over the world. There’s not a specific regional trend; people are open to whatever. We have been having fun with Australian wines, especially ones from outside the conventional South Australia style. We recently opened a Clonakilla Shiraz Viognier 2017 from Canberra and it was phenomenal.” – Christian Hamel, Harbour 60, Toronto
Which wine are you serving right now that you’re excited to pour for guests?
“We feature Domaine Lafrance Cuvée Spéciale ice cider, which is made from a blend of McIntosh and Cortland apples and aged for 10 years in barrels. It develops complex aromas of caramelized apple, honey and white flowers and has bright acidity that’s surprising and perfectly balances the residual sugar, resulting in a refined product with a long, elegant finish.” – Savoie
“I have a riesling that Tantalus Vineyards made with grapes from Ontario, following that deep freeze that wiped out a massive percentage of the grape crop in 2024. The grape replacement program [temporary creating a ‘Crafted in B.C.’ category for wines made with out-of-province fruit] allowed wineries to keep going and pay their employees – and they made beautiful wines. These wines were so important to the resilience of the industry, and they all have great stories that go along with the wine.” – Hartigan
“I think my team is tired of hearing me talk about Japanese wine. But I love the Koshu grape from the Yamanashi prefecture. It’s leaner, like Grüner Veltliner, with just a hint of bitterness that makes it more complex. The wines are great and not usually expensive. We have five or six producers now on the list, including Grace vineyards Koshu 2023 that’s a fun discovery for guests.” – Hamel