The Antinori nel Chianti Classico winery, which opened in 2012, is the headquarters of Marchesi Antinori, located near Florence, Italy.Antinori nel Chianti Classico winery
Wines from Chianti Classico are often suggested in this column for sincere reasons. These red wines, based on sangiovese, consistently impress and continue to be some of the finest value wines available.
I am not the only one who thinks this. Canada ranks with the United States and Great Britain as the top international markets for red wines sporting Chianti Classico’s signature black roster emblem. The Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico, the official body of the region for the past 100 years, continues to promote quality winemaking by stressing the link between the grape and the place.
Winemaking has taken place in the historic heartland of Tuscany that spreads 50 kilometres from Florence to Siena since the 13th century, but producers are seeing Chianti Classico’s diverse landscape in a new light thanks to Alessandro Masnaghetti’s efforts to map its geological, topographical and climatological particulars.
A cartographer and journalist, Masnaghetti’s detailed maps of Chianti Classico helped the appellation identify 11 subzones in 2021 to give more detail to the labelling of top-of-the-line Gran Selezione wines. The introduction of so-called UGAs – short for “unita geografiche aggiuntive”– means consumers will have a more precise understanding of where the grapes were grown, whether it was in Castellina, Greve, Lamole, Panzano or Radda, to name some better-known places in Chianti Classico.
Gran Selezione wines aren’t made in a vacuum so that enhanced understanding of how the different places develop different flavours in sangiovese and the other authorized grape varieties will influence the quality of vintage and riserva wines produced going forward.
My appreciation for their juicy and savoury charms grows as the temperature drops, which prompted a recent tasting of a wide assortment of regional wines available right now. These six wines stood out as exemplary examples that were available in a number of provinces.
There’s a mix of styles captured here, based on where the grapes were grown and when. For instance, wines made in 2022 often show elevated ripeness owing to extreme heat and drought conditions, while 2021 are better balanced, with classic character that has better potential for aging. Is one style better than the other? Depends on your taste in red wines and where and when you plan to enjoy them.
Carpineto Chianti Classico 2022 (Italy), $23.95
Univins and Spirits/Supplied
Rating: 91
Established in 1967 in Dudda, a small town in Greve, this family-owned operation oversees 500 hectares located in Chianti Classico, Maremma, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano and Brunello di Montalcino. The current release of its Chianti Classico label delivers the expected house style. A blend of sangiovese with 5-per-cent additions of canaiolo and colorino, this reveals a mix of tart and ripe cherry/berry fruit with spice accents. An astringent finish makes for a red wine that’s best enjoyed with a meal. This has 13 per cent ABV and 3 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2030. Available at the above price in Ontario, various prices in Alberta, $24.99 in Manitoba, $24.65 in Quebec, and $29.99 in New Brunswick.
Castello di Gabbiano Bellezza Gran Selezione Chianti Classico 2018 (Italy), $59.95
Mark Anthony/Supplied
Rating: 92
The Gran Selezione category was introduced in 2014 to represent the top single-vineyard sangiovese wines produced in Chianti Classico. These complex expressions were placed a step up the quality pyramid from Chianti Classico Riserva. First produced in 1997, Gabbiano’s Bellezza was one of the first wines to carry the Gran Selezione designation. The savoury and mature character of the 2018 suggests this is a concentrated wine that’s reaching its peak. Expect a layered and fragrant wine suggesting an array of red fruit, spice and earthy notes. This has 14.5 per cent ABV and 3 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2030. Available at the above price in Ontario, various prices in Alberta, and $44.99 in Manitoba.
Lamole di Lamole Lareale Riserva Chianti Classico 2020 (Italy), $36.99
Dandurand/Supplied
Rating: 92
Lamole is a hamlet in Greve located at one of the highest elevations where sangiovese grapes are cultivated in Tuscany. Once viewed as too cool, it’s become a desirable location given rising summer temperatures. A blend of sangiovese from two estate vineyards, this offers succulent red fruit flavours with floral and earthy accents. The style is nicely polished and integrated, with an age-worthy character. This has 14 per cent ABV and 2 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2030. Available at the above price in British Columbia, $30.75 in Quebec (2021 vintage), $44.99 in New Brunswick, and $39.99 in Nova Scotia.
Ricasoli Brolio Riserva Chianti Classico 2021 (Italy), $29.95
The Case for Wine/Supplied
Rating: 92
Made with sangiovese grown in different areas in Chianti Classico, this is a full-bodied and flavourful red wine marked by dark fruit and complex earthy and peppery notes. This is robust and rewarding, with succulent cherry fruit and firm structure that promises terrific aging potential. This has 14 per cent ABV and 2 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2032. Available at the above price in Ontario, various prices in Alberta, and $31.25 in Quebec.
San Felice Chianti Classico 2022 (Italy), $21.95
Noble Estates/Supplied
Rating: 90
San Felice’s character consistently strikes a pleasing chord between earthy and juicy, offering a mix of cherry, berry and plum fruit with leafy and herbal notes. The palate is fresh with fine-grained tannins that provide structure for aging, but I’m not sure what more you could desire. This has 13.5 per cent ABV and 3 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2028. Available at the above price in Ontario, $25.99 in British Columbia and Manitoba, various prices in Alberta, $27.99 in Saskatchewan, and $21.50 in Quebec.
Villa Antinori Riserva Chianti Classico 2022 (Italy), $39.95
Supplied
Rating: 92
The ripe character of the 2022 vintage makes for a wine with a sumptuous core of cherry and red berry jam with tobacco and licorice notes. This modern and glossy expression of Antinori’s classic sangiovese-blend is ready to drink. This has 14 per cent ABV and 3 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2030. Available at the above price in Ontario, $42.99 in British Columbia, various prices in Alberta, $36.99 in Manitoba, $34.75 in Quebec, $46.49 in New Brunswick, and $34.19 in Prince Edward Island.