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Niagara’s International Cool Climate Chardonnay Celebration focuses attention on the popular white wine grape with a variety of events throughout the region and special tastings at participating wineries. Taking place July 16 to 19, this year’s event has a Canada-wide theme, featuring wineries from British Columbia and Nova Scotia joining Ontario producers such as Hidden Bench, Le Clos Jordanne, Rosehall Run, Stratus and Thirty Bench.
In anticipation of the annual celebration, the LCBO’s current Vintages release is promoting a special selection called Nothing But Chardonnay, featuring 14 wines from both familiar and surprising regions, including Australia, Canada and France as well as Spain and Italy.
The title rewrites the backlash from the so-called Anything But Chardonnay consumers, who sought to discover bright and balanced white wines instead of the overly ripe and heavily oaked chardonnay that were prevalent in warm climate regions in California and Australia during the 1990s and early 2000s.
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Launched in 2011, early International Cool Climate Chardonnay Celebrations sought to remind consumers, sommeliers and retailers that there were refreshingly different styles of chardonnay being produced in Canadian vineyards.
There has been a considerable stylistic change since that time, including a revival of bold and buttery styles of chardonnay. These modern interpretations are not exact duplicates; they offer enhanced texture and freshness in the contemporary old-school chardonnay styles, such as The Practice Chardonnay reviewed below.
For details about this year’s Chardonnay celebration, visit coolchardonnay.org
Beronia Rueda Verdejo 2025 (Spain), $16.95
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Rating: 90
White wines from Rueda continue to gain attention and respect thanks to their consistently crisp character. This dry and medium-bodied wine is made from the verdejo grape, and offers an enjoyable mix of fruity and herbal flavours that linger. Its fresh, flavourful style makes it a solid all-round white to enjoy with food or on its own.
This has 13-per-cent alcohol by volume and 2 grams a litre residual sugar. Drink now. Available at the above price in Ontario, $15.99 in Manitoba, $16.10 in Quebec.
Château de Rochemorin Pessac-Léognan 2022 (France), $39.95
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Rating: 93
Château de Rochemorin is one of four estates in Bordeaux’s Pessac-Léognan owned by André Lurton. Its merlot and cabernet sauvignon-based blend from the 2022 vintage is attracting extra attention thanks to a best in show citation from the Decanter World Wine Awards. The London-based wine competition is more generous with its scores than the magazine behind it, but this ripe and structured red wine warrants praise. It is harmonious, with attractive floral, dark fruit and peppery spice notes that make it ready to drink now.
This has 14-per-cent ABV and 3 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2032. Available in Ontario.
Henry of Pelham Speck Family Reserve Chardonnay 2024 (Canada), $34.95
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Rating: 92
Henry of Pelham’s Niagara chardonnays are made to be rich and ripe, leaning toward generosity and complexity, while retaining focus and freshness. The Speck Family Reserve label is produced from the oldest vines farmed by the family. This barrel-fermented white wine reveals bright citrus and melon with cream, butter and toasted accents. The serious and appetizing style shines, thanks to its texture, complexity and length.
This has 14-per-cent ABV and 2 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2034. Available at the above price in Ontario, $29.95 direct, henryofpelham.com.
Les Jamelles Merlot 2024 (France), $17.05
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Rating: 89
Here’s a reliable wine from the south of France, Les Jamelles Merlot has an attractive, balanced character with sweet, plummy fruit flavours. Its smooth texture enhances its drinkability and appeal.
This has 14-per-cent ABV and 6 g/litre r.s. Drink now.
Available at the above price in Ontario, $16.99 in Manitoba.
Mare di Sirena Pinot Grigio 2025 (Italy), $11
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Rating: 87
The Mare di Sirena brand was created by Toronto wine agent Alex Patinos, who partnered with an Italian winery to produce this affordably priced pinot grigio. In the glass, it has an understated, lemony flavour. It’s balanced and pleasant, but lacks character and complexity.
This has 12-per-cent ABV and 2 g/litre r.s. Drink now. Available at the above price in Ontario, $15.99 in British Columbia, various prices in Alberta, $12.99 in Manitoba.
Tantalus Riesling 2025 (Canada), $30.99
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Rating: 92
Tantalus has built its reputation on the sterling quality of its rieslings and other wines produced from its estate vineyards in Kelowna. This youthful expression shows a compelling and concentrated character shaped by citrus and peach, and floral and wet stone notes. It’s an excitingly vibrant style of riesling with a focused, long-lasting flavour.
This has 12.2-per-cent ABV and 14.9 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2040. Available at the above price in B.C., $27.83 direct, tantalus.ca, various prices in Alberta, $38.27 in Manitoba.
The Practice Chardonnay 2024 (Australia), $16.95
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Rating: 88
A new listing at LCBO outlets, The Practice is a throwback model of Australian chardonnay with a rich and ripe character. The flavours suggest a mix of sweetcorn, melon and citrus with bold toasted and creamy notes.
This chardonnay is purpose-built in a simple, balanced and crowd-pleasing style that could come from anywhere. It should appeal to anyone still looking for an alternative to their favourite, affordable Californian brand.
This has 12.5-per-cent ABV and 6 g/litre r.s. Drink now. Available at the above price in Ontario ($13.95 until July 19).
Viña Cobos Felino Chardonnay 2024 (Argentina), $21.95
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Rating: 91
This stylish chardonnay boasts a rich texture and juicy flavours. Made from a blend of grapes grown in Uco Valley and Luján de Cuyo, and combining tank and barrel fermented lots, it delivers layers of citrus and apple fruit as part of its medium-bodied profile.
This has 14.3-per-cent ABV and 2 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2030. Available at the above price in Ontario, various prices in Alberta, $21.35 in Quebec.