Thomas Bachelder’s annual release of Niagara pinots and chardonnays includes the very exciting Bachelder Hanck Pinot Noir 2023.Le Clos Jordanne/Supplied
A cold, wet fall night begs for comfort, which can come in the form of thick knit socks or something substantial and warming for dinner accompanied by a rich and complex wine to sip on.
This is proper red wine weather. Ripe and rich styles of pinot noir hit the mark, maybe something more robust on a frosty evening. A riper chardonnay could work, too. There are some solid examples recommended this week, including one of the most exciting wines featured in winemaker Thomas Bachelder’s annual release of pinot and chardonnay from vineyards spread across Niagara. (There were 14 whites, mostly chardonnay with a surprising pinot blanc, and nine pinots produced from single vineyards and small parcels stretching from St. David’s to Grimsby.)
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Bachelder’s wines are made – and priced – for the cellar, but there’s also excitement enjoying the pure blast of vibrant and heady flavours on offer from these captivating expressions upon release. They are ready when you are. There’s comfort in that.
Albert Bichot Château de Dracy Bourgogne Pinot Noir 2023 (France), $29.95
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Rating: 88
Château de Dracy is in Couchois, a hilly region in the south of the Côte de Beaune with a long history of cultivating pinot noir. The 2023 is a light and bright red wine with a pleasant mix of tart and ripe red and black fruit flavours rounded out with some toasted, earthy and spice notes. Simple and tasty, this is best enjoyed with a meal. This has 13 per cent ABV and 3 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2028. Available in Ontario.
Bachelder Hanck Pinot Noir 2023 (Canada), $75
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Rating: 95
The Hanck vineyard in Vineland is owned by King and Victoria Winery, which sells some fruit to Bachelder and Cloudsley. The result is one of the top wines produced by winemaker Thomas Bachelder in the 2023 vintage. This is a fragrant and flavourful pinot that tastes of dark berries and cherries with floral and minty accents and a seamless structure. One to watch. This has 13 per cent ABV. Drink now to 2033. Available direct, bachelderniagara.com.
Blason de Bourgogne Saint-Véran 2023 (France), $28.95
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Rating: 88
Blason de Bourgogne is a co-operative working with growers throughout Burgundy. Made with chardonnay grapes grown in Saint-Véran, near the more famous Pouilly Fuissé region of Burgundy, this tank-fermented white wine is bright and lively with some apricot and melon adding some roundness to the palate. This has 13.2 per cent ABV and 2 g/litre r.s. Drink now. Available in Ontario.
Cocchi Dopo Teatro Amaro Vermouth (Italy), $39.95
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Rating: 93
Cocchi uses a 100-year-old recipe for this amaro that’s based on local Barolo chinato wine with rhubarb, quinine and other fragrant ingredients. This complex and velvety vermouth is named “after the theatre” in honour of the local tradition of enjoying a small glass at the end of the evening. A sweet and comforting drink best enjoyed served over an ice cube with a twist of lemon peel. Once open, keep the bottle chilled and drink within a month. This has 16 per cent ABV and 215 g/litre r.s. Drink now. Available at the above price in Ontario, various prices in Alberta.
Ferrari Brut Sparkling (Italy), $29.95
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Rating: 91
An association with F1 racing raised the profile of this refined and flavourful sparkling wine from Alto Adige. A bottle-fermented bubbly, this has a more vibrant and focused character than fruity and fizzy Prosecco. The style shows citrus and toast notes as part of a refreshing medium-bodied fizz. This has 12.5 per cent ABV and 8 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2030. Available at the above price in Ontario, various prices in Alberta, $27.95 in Quebec, $31.09 in Prince Edward Island.
Hamilton Russell Pinot Noir 2024 (South Africa), $70.95
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Rating: 92
Hamilton Russell is a family-owned estate in South Africa’s Hemel-en-Aarde Valley, one of the country’s southernmost regions that’s cooled by ocean breezes. The first pinot noir was made in 1981 and the winery continues to elevate its reputation based on the quality of this spicy and structured red that has some grip. The 2024 release is serious and best enjoyed with a meal. This has 13.5 per cent ABV and 3 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2034. Available at the above price in Ontario, various prices in Alberta, $68.09 in Manitoba, $74.50 in Quebec.
Quails’ Gate Stewart Family Reserve Chardonnay 2022 (Canada), $47.95
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Rating: 91
The Stewart Family Reserve label showcases the best wines made from Quails’ Gate’s oldest vineyards in West Kelowna, B.C. The flagship 2022 chardonnay is developing nicely, with an oyster shell and flinty note adding interest to the wine’s citrus and apple flavours and refreshing character. This is expressive and enjoyable. This has 13.5 per cent ABV and 2 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2032. Available at the above price in Ontario, $49.99 in British Columbia (2023 vintage), $50 direct, quailsgate.com (2023 vintage), various prices in Alberta, $55.99 in Prince Edward Island.
Oreno 2022 (Italy), $99.95
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Rating: 94
Oreno is the flagship red for Tenuta Sette Ponti. It’s a blend of merlot, cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc and petit Verdot from certified organic estate vineyards in Tuscany. The 2022 shows the ripeness of the vintage with richly concentrated dark fruit and savoury flavours that add depth to a wine with an impressive supple and polished texture. This has 14.5 per cent ABV and 2 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2035. Available at the above price in Ontario, $115.99 in British Columbia (2021 vintage), various prices in Alberta, $104.50 in Quebec, $147.80 in New Brunswick.
Yalumba Samuel’s Collection Barossa Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 (Australia), $21.95
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Rating: 91
Australia’s signature Shiraz Cabernet blend is deeply ingrained in Yalumba’s DNA. The family-owned winery produces an exceptional range of Shiraz Cabernet labels including the collectible Signature and The Caley labels. This complex offering continues to be one of the Barossa’s great values. Expect a richly concentrated red with a satisfying mix of fleshy dark fruit, savoury and spicy notes. This has 14.5 per cent ABV and 3 g/litre r.s. Vegan. Drink now to 2032. Available at the above price in Ontario, various prices in Alberta.