REGIS DUVIGNAU/Reuters
As the temperature drops, my interest in hearty red wine typically increases. But I’m also attracted to deeply satisfying styles of white wines that inspire cheer and conviviality during the cozy season.
The enveloping character of rich and full-bodied whites, as well as any robust reds, can bolster against the weather. While concentrated chardonnays spring instantly to mind, they aren’t the only default setting.
More novel options exist in the form of round and expressive white wines made with semillon, viognier and viura. The seasonality of fortified wines also comes into play during the dark months.
The nine bottles singled out in this week’s recommendations strike me as nurturing styles that are also prime candidates for serving to family and friends around the table for festive occasions. Some of my favourite styles of white wines are here, including a complex white from Rioja, an aged marsanne from a historic family estate in Australia and a unique model of chardonnay musque from one of Ontario’s original premium vineyards.
Calmel & Joseph Villa Blanche Viognier 2023 (France), $17
Rating: 87
This well-made viognier from the south of France was aged in a mix of stainless-steel tanks and oak barrels to create a balanced and fruity white wine. Classic peach and apricot stand out with spicy and floral accents. This has 13 per cent ABV and 4 g/litre r.s. Drink now. Available in Ontario.
Cave Spring Chardonnay Musque 2022 (Canada), $24.95
Rating: 90
Made from a musque clone of chardonnay grown in Cave Spring’s namesake vineyard in Beamsville, Ont., this full-bodied white wine is made in a rich and fragrant style. The flavour spectrum runs from beeswax and lanolin to ginger and jasmine with sweet and sour citrus fruit. This has 13.5 per cent ABV and 2 g/litre r.s. Vegan friendly. Drink now to 2032. Available direct, cavespring.ca.
Château la Nerthe Les Cassagnes de la Nerthe Côtes du Rhône Blanc 2023 (Canada), $29.95
Rating: 92
A blend of viognier, grenache blanc, roussanne and marsanne from the Domaine de la Renjarde vineyard, this tank-fermented white wine shows a mix of white peach, citrus and pear fruit with honeysuckle and acacia notes as part of its compelling character. A creamy texture is balanced by mouth-watering acidity and a refreshing finish. This has 14 per cent ABV and 2 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2033. Available at the above price in Ontario, $42.51 in Nova Scotia.
Cono Sur Bicicleta Viognier Reserva 2024 (Chile), $11.60
Rating: 88
Consistently one of the best value whites in the country, Cono Sur Bicicleta Viognier Reserva conveys textbook peach and apricot fruit with floral and spice notes. This is ripe, round and easy to appreciate. This has 13 per cent ABV and 5 g/litre r.s. Drink now. Available at the above price in Ontario, $12.99 in British Columbia, various prices in Alberta, $13.99 in Saskatchewan, Manitoba and New Brunswick, $13.95 in Nova Scotia.
Cune Blanco Reserva 2020 (Spain), $27.95
Rating: 91
A throwback to the style of white wines made in Rioja in the 1950s, this rich and complex expression is made from viura grapes grown on bush vines planted in 1973. Fermentation in a mix of concrete, oak vats and barrels followed by 18 months aging in barrels contributes to the creamy texture and core of toasty, lemony and spicy flavours. This has 13.5 per cent ABV and 2 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2030. Available in Ontario.
El Enemigo Semillon 2023 (Argentina), $28.95
Rating: 93
Founded in 2007 by Alejandro Vigil and Adrianna Catena, El Enemigo makes wine from high-altitude vineyards in Argentina’s Andes Mountains. The portfolio includes distinctive red wines, but the surprising stand-out for many is this concentrated and complex take on semillon. A rich and refreshing white, this French-oak-fermented and aged semillon shows peach and citrus fruit with honey and floral notes as part of a textural white with a persistent finish. This has 13.5 per cent ABV and 2 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2033. Available in Ontario.
González Byass Nutty Solera Medium Oloroso Sherry (Spain), $21.95
Rating: 91
Nutty is best word to describe the round, medium-sweet character of this sherry. Made from palomino and pedro ximénez grapes and solera aged for three years, there’s a complex mix of nutty, spicy and toffee flavours with fig and dried fruit notes. Served slightly chilled, this is a treat on its own, pre- or postdinner, or as an accompaniment to Manchego and other hard cheeses, nuts and crackers. It’s also useful to have on hand for cocktails. This has 20 per cent ABV and 62 g/litre r.s. Drink now. Available at the above price in Ontario, $20.99 in British Columbia, various prices in Alberta, $18.99 in Manitoba.
See Ya Later Ranch Legacy Chardonnay 2020 (Canada), $33.95
Rating: 90
Located on top of Hawthorne Mountain, See Ya Later Ranch is one of Arterra’s wineries in the Okanagan. The rich and toasty style of this chardonnay is amplified by fermentation and aging in American and French oak barrels. A core of ripe lemon, apple and pineapple notes contribute to a generous character with a California vibe. This has 13.6 per cent ABV and 4 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2028. Available at the above price in Ontario, $34.99 direct, greatestatesokanagan.com.
Tahbilk Museum Release Marsanne 2018 (Australia), $24.95
Rating: 91
Family-owned in central Victoria since 1860, Tahbilk holds back a quarter of each marsanne vintage for extended bottle age for its Museum Release label. The result is richer expression with waxy, lanolin and toast notes rounded out by apricot, pear and white florals. The texture evolves to become creamier with a refreshing finish. This has 12.5 per cent ABV and 4 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2040. Available in Ontario.