Mark Calver, a founding member of Hatch Mansfield, has worked with Domaine Evremond since the beginning.Thomas Alexander/Supplied
The English wine scene received a huge boost in December, 2015, when the Taittinger family from Champagne announced a joint venture in Kent. The partnership with U.K. wine merchant Hatch Mansfield, which has managed sales and marketing for Champagne Taittinger in the U.K. for decades, and other private investors was based on a desire to produce premium sparkling wine in the southeasternmost corner of the country.
Pierre-Emmanuel Taittinger, president of Champagne Taittinger, told Wine Spectator at that time: “This is the conclusion of a long love affair between the U.K. and Champagne.”
Now, we’re getting the first taste of Domaine Evremond Classic Cuvée, the exceptional inaugural release from the winery based on an old apple orchard in Chilham in the Kent countryside. A limited release of the British fizz is currently available at select LCBO Vintages outlets.
Patience is key to creating top-quality sparkling wine, explains Mark Calver, a founding member of Hatch Mansfield who has worked with Domaine Evremond since the beginning. “All of the sudden, 10 years have gone by.”
The Taittingers wanted to establish a property with deep roots, which meant starting from scratch, Calver says.
That meant finding a farm in the right place with the right soils to convert into a grape-growing operation. Once the 68-hectare orchard in the rolling countryside was purchased, the best sites to plant chardonnay, pinot noir and pinot meunier were surveyed, with vines going into the ground in 2016 and 2017. Establishing a vineyard takes time, with the first suitable crop of grapes coming after three years.
Sparkling wine production is more labour intensive than still wine, which, in some cases, can be pressed and bottled for sale in a matter of months. Domaine Evremond follows Champagne’s exacting standards. After harvesting the grapes, a base wine is blended from wines made with different grape varieties and potentially different vintages. Then that wine is bottled with a small addition of sugar to undergo secondary fermentation to create the bubbles.
Once fermentation is complete, those bottles of sparkling wine are left in the cellar, aging with the yeast sediment (called lees) can add richness, texture and complexity to the finished wine. The longer the wine rests in contact with its lees, the more bready, toasty or biscuity flavours and aromas develop. Once the desired character is achieved, the bottles are opened, the lees are removed and the wine is usually topped a small amount of sweetened wine (called dosage) to help balance the wine’s acidity.
Domaine Evremond’s classic label was aged three years with the lees and an additional six months before being released to the U.K. market in April. Calver says reception has been strong, with orders coming from key accounts including Harrods, Harvey Nichols and Selfridges as well as top hotels and restaurants.
“It’s a very, very fast start,” he says. “But we know we have to demonstrate credibility and consistency.”
Champagne Taittinger followed a similar model in California, teaming up with its importer Kobrand to establish Domaine Carneros in 1987.
A review of the first release of Domaine Evremond is featured this week, along with four other bottled fermented sparkling wines representing different areas of production and prices.
Domaine Evremond Classic Cuvée Sparkling (England), $99.95
Domaine Evremond/Supplied
Rating: 92
This is an exciting debut for Taittinger’s joint venture in England. A blend of mostly grapes from the 2020 vintage with a small addition (20 per cent) of reserve wines from 2019, this pinot noir-dominant cuvée includes 25-per-cent chardonnay and 15-per-cent pinot meunier. The result is an expressive bubbly, with juicy acidity and a lingering saline finish. This has 12-per-cent ABV and 8 grams a litre r.s. Drink now to 2032. Available in Ontario.
Dom Pérignon Murakami Limited Edition Champagne 2015 (France), $382.95
Edery & Lord Communications/Supplied
Rating: 96
Many Champagnes are multivintage blends, but Dom Pérignon is made from a single harvest and given ample time in the cellar to mature prior to its release (more than eight years for the 2015 vintage). If the quality isn’t there, as in 2014, 2016 and 2023, there isn’t a release. The 2015 vintage was shaped by a cold spring and hot and dry summer, resulting in a finished wine that’s rich and complex, with a rounded and creamy texture. The doesn’t have the zest and focus of classic Dom vintages, but there’s freshness and finesse to counter the juicy appeal. The bottle reviewed was a limited-edition release featuring Japanese artist Takashi Murakami’s signature smiling flower motif on the box and label. This has 12-per-cent ABV and 6 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2032. Available at the above price in Ontario, various prices in Alberta.
Louis Bouillot Perle d’Aurore Brut Rosé Crémant de Bourgogne (France), $26.95
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Rating: 88
Founded in 1877, Bouillot was one of the earliest producers of sparkling wine in Burgundy. Perle d’Aurore rosé is made in a simple and enjoyable style, based on a blend of pinot noir, gamay and chardonnay grown across the French winemaking region. Expect a crowd pleasing mix of red berry and citrus flavours. This has 12-per-cent ABV and 13 g/litre r.s. Drink now. Available at the above price in Ontario, $31.99 in British Columbia ($29.99 until Dec. 27), various prices in Alberta, $26 in Quebec, $30.29 in Nova Scotia.
Taittinger Prestige Rose Champagne (France), $104.65
FWM Canada/Supplied
Rating: 91
The Taittinger family is one of the largest vineyard owners in Champagne, using those grapes to produce a range of sparkling wines including the celebrated Comtes de Champagne label. A winning mix of sophistication and approachable red fruit flavour make this a go-to for entertaining. This has 12.5-per-cent ABV and 9 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2027. Available at the above price in Ontario, $99.99 in British Columbia, various prices in Alberta, $101.75 in Quebec.
Trius Brut Rosé (Canada), $29.95
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Rating: 90
One of Niagara’s most consistent sparkling wine labels, Trius Brut Rosé strikes a nice balance between refreshing citrus and ripe red fruit flavours as part of its bright and satisfying character. Solid value for its quality. This has 12-per-cent ABV and 8 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2028. Available at the above price in Ontario or $29 direct, triuswines.com