A growing number of consumers are reducing their spending by cutting back on dining out and looking for bargains – which means more interest in value-priced wine.
The value of wine can be subjective. Some prioritize price while others seek a balance between cost and enjoyment. This week’s selection of wines carries wholehearted endorsements of quality expressions available at premium and luxury prices. Their value propositions include the winemaking talents, the quality of the grapes, the attention to detail behind the scenes, and the regional character on display.
While there is a wide assortment of inexpensive wine brands available, I believe that good value isn’t the same as a cheap price. If a wine doesn’t entice a second sip or a second glass, it has no value, regardless of its low price.
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Alvi’s Drift Signature Chardonnay 2024 (South Africa), $14.95
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Rating: 90
Alvi van der Merwe and his wife, Junel, started this family winery in South Africa’s Breede River Valley in 2003. The Signature label is the entry level tier, which includes this fruity and balanced tank fermented chardonnay. You can expect a mix of tropical and citrus fruit with some earthy notes and a creamy texture from aging with the lees (dead yeast left over after fermentation). Impressive focus and persistence for the price. This has 13.5 per cent alcohol by volume and five grams a litre of residual sugar. Drink now. Available in Ontario.
Domaine Queylus Droite 2023 (Canada), $45.70
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Rating: 91
Droite’s name is a nod to its inspiration: the merlot-based wines made in regions like Pomerol and St. Emilion on Bordeaux’s Right Bank. The 2023 vintage blend consists of 77 per cent merlot and 23 per cent cabernet franc sourced from Queylus’ organic estate vineyard in Beamsville. It was aged for up to 18 months in French oak barrels. The result is a ripe and complex expression, presenting a mix of plummy and berry flavours with floral and oak-derived spice notes. This is appealing in its youth, with potential to age gracefully in the cellar. This has 13 per cent ABV and two g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2033. Available at the above price in Ontario, $62.61 in Prince Edward Island.
Hidden Bench Estate Organic Riesling 2022 (Canada), $26.95
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Rating: 92
Hidden Bench has carved out its own niche for Niagara riesling, offering expressions that are drier, with zesty brightness and depth of flavour. The 2022 vintage is intensely perfumed, with developing honey and lanolin notes that add interest to the appetizing peach, citrus and apple fruit flavours. The style is intense and lively with terrific structure and the potential to age well. This has 11 per cent ABV and 19 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2030. Available at the above price in Ontario or $24.75 direct, hiddenbench.com.
Le Serre Nuove dell’Ornellaia 2023 (Italy), $84.95
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Rating: 93
Le Serre Nuove was created as the second wine from Ornellaia’s Bolgheri estate, produced with the same grape varieties from younger vines and attention to detail as the flagship label. In 2023, Marco Balsimelli’s first complete vintage as Ornellaia’s operations director, the blend centres on merlot and cabernet sauvignon with small additions of cabernet franc and petit verdot. The finished wine reveals a rich and concentrated character, with a polished texture as part of a well-integrated and balanced red that’s ready to drink. This has 14.5 per cent ABV and three g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2032. Available at the above price in Ontario, $79.99 in British Columbia, various prices in Alberta, $88 in Quebec, $84.50 in New Brunswick, $80.99 in Nova Scotia.
Martin’s Lane Naramata Ranch Pinot Noir 2020 (Canada), $105.99
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Rating: 95
Martin’s Lane’s Naramata vineyard is highly regarded, almost being chosen as the winery’s location before plans ultimately settled on its Kelowna home base, next door to Cedar Creek. Part of Anthony von Mandl’s Iconic Wineries of British Columbia group, this boutique winery focuses solely on single-vineyard pinot noir and rieslings. This 2020 pinot noir is showing youthful and fragrant mix of cherry and berry fruit with savoury and earthy accents. The style threads the needle between generosity and sophistication and is just hitting its stride at this stage of development. This has 12.7 per cent ABV. Drink now to 2032. Available at the above price in British Columbia, $107.99 in Manitoba.
Quails’ Gate Chenin Blanc 2025 (Canada), $27.99
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Rating: 90
Quails Gate produces this with 100 per cent chenin blanc grapes from vines that are over 20-year-old. It has a clean and friendly character with pleasant floral and fruity notes. The refreshing, aromatic style features a blend of pear, citrus and melon with hints of herbs and pear drop candy and is enjoyable with or without a meal. This has 12.5 per cent ABV and 0.7 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2028. Available at the above price in British Columbia, $26.99 direct, quailsgate.com, various prices in Alberta.
San Pedro 1865 Selected Vineyards Las Lagunas Carmenère 2023 (Chile), $20.95
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Rating: 91
Founded in 1865, Viña San Pedro is one of Chile’s largest wine producers. The winery uses that significant date for its wine brand that emphasizes specific grape varieties grown in their most ideal vineyard locations. For carmenère, the winery selected Las Lagunas in the Colchagua Valley to produce this serious steak-house-style red. The result is a full-bodied, ripe and complex wine with sweet berry fruit and savoury notes (such as black pepper, roasted red pepper and herbal notes). This has 14.5 per cent ABV and four g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2030. Available at the above price in Ontario, $26.99 in British Columbia, $22.99 in Manitoba.