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In the absence of popular richly flavoured chardonnays from California, wine lovers are on the hunt for alternatives. There’s an audience that craves creamy textures and buttery characters to replace fuller-bodied styles, such as Bread & Butter, Kendall Jackson Vintners Reserve and Rombauer. Their quest comes with challenges as fresher and focused styles have become popular with winemakers and many consumers around the world, but there are labels that lean toward more generous and hedonistic profiles, including these three current releases.

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Flat Rock The OC Chardonnay 2023 (Canada), $34.95
Rating: 88
The OC is short for The Oaked Chardonnay, a special release from Flat Rock Cellars’ Monolith series, which shares some of the winemaking team’s research projects with customers. In this instance, it’s a throwback style of chardonnay with a rich and creamy texture and full-on toasty and spicy notes from fermentation and extended aging in new French oak barrels. It’s a bigger and bolder expression than Flat Rock’s typical style, but there’s still a blast of citrussy acidity to balance that considerable weight. This has 13.5 per cent ABV and 2 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2030. Available in Ontario.

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Family Tree The Goat Lady Chardonnay 2024 (Canada), $16.95
Rating: 88
Family Tree is an off shoot of Niagara’s Henry of Pelham Family Estate. Made in a rich and creamy style, the Goat Lady Chardonnay strikes a chord with its old-school character. This leans into chardonnay’s buttery nature without losing balance and freshness. This has 13 per cent ABV and 7 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2027. Available at the above price in Ontario, $15.99 direct, henryofpelham.com, $17.99 in Manitoba, $21.99 in Newfoundland.

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Lindemans Bin 65 Chardonnay 2024 (Australia), $13.05
Rating: 86
Lindemans Bin 65 Chardonnay was built to be a crowd-pleasing chardonnay, not a critic’s choice. The current release delivers expected bold flavour and soft texture with plenty of sweet fruit and vanilla-like oak on display. This has 13.5 per cent ABV and 5 g/litre r.s. Drink now. Available at the above price in Ontario, $10.99 in British Columbia, various prices in Alberta and Saskatchewan, $14 in Manitoba ($13.49 until Nov. 30), $13.10 in Quebec, $14.99 in New Brunswick and Nova Scotia, $15.09 in Prince Edward Island, $16.78 in Newfoundland.