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Spring fashion: The designer debuts and runway moments that stood out
Style Magazine

Top of the class

In a season with so many designer debuts and news-making runway moments, these collections make the grade

Nadia PizzimentiFashion Editor
Photography by Kelly Jacob
The Globe and Mail
THE BIG DEBUT: The task of reimagining Chanel’s deep catalogue of house codes – tweed suits, quilted bags, et al. – was probably the most demanding new designer test of the season. Matthieu Blazy passed with flying colours while infusing the collection with his own penchant for trompe l’oeil materials and conceptual-yet-playful accessories.
THE BIG DEBUT: The task of reimagining Chanel’s deep catalogue of house codes – tweed suits, quilted bags, et al. – was probably the most demanding new designer test of the season. Matthieu Blazy passed with flying colours while infusing the collection with his own penchant for trompe l’oeil materials and conceptual-yet-playful accessories.
NEW KIDS: Glenn Martens at Margiela, Jonathan Anderson at Dior and Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez at Loewe all found ways to merge their own style sensibilities with the needs of their new employers. Whether your own closet leans broody and goth, elevated normcore or contemporary eclectic, these names are offering some of the most buzzed-about looks right now.
On Jack (left): Leather coat, trousers, sheer top, open-toe boots at Maison Margiela (maisonmargiela.com). On Michael (centre): Leather collar trench coat, sweater, jeans, sneakers at Dior (dior.com). On Maya (right): Textured coat, trousers, clogs at Loewe (loewe.com).
SOPHOMORE STANDOUT: The softer elements of tailoring that Haider Ackerman has cross-faded into the Tom Ford collection in two short seasons is propelling the label forward. Take this blush suit, insouciantly cut in leather and paired with black bedroom slippers. Pyjama dressing has never looked so dandy.
Leather shirt, trousers, silk scarf, ballet flats at Tom Ford (tomford.com).
TREND-SETTERS: From graphic stripes to bold blocks of colour, there’s an uplifting vibrancy in the collections of Chloe, Burberry, Thom Browne and Miu Miu. The former two create everyday, wearable options for tweaking your wardrobe, while the latter two pile on vivid bands and apron-like layers for a more fashion-forward take.
On Jessalynn (left): Cotton jacket, washed jeans, brass and resin bracelet, pleated brass earrings at Chloe (chloe.com). On Jack (second from left): Striped short-sleeve sweater, corduroy trousers at Burberry (burberry.com). On Maya (second from right): Tailored coat, frayed-edge jacket, button up shirt, pleated skirt, striped tie, platform boots at Thom Browne (thombrowne.com). On Ziwei (right): Blue cotton apron dress, white cotton dress, sleeveless cotton shirt, shorts, silk scarf, patent leather heels at Miu Miu (miumiu.com).
COLOUR OF THE SEASON: At a time of year that’s often rich with pastel hues, Prada offers a rainbow of retro-tinted shades. There are satiny opera gloves in mauvy pink and robin’s-egg blue, bloomers in sherbet orange, and the chromatic standout, the rich pistachio green of an oversized leather jacket. Like all things Prada, the sweet shade is just a bit wrong, which is why it feels so right.
Leather jacket, cotton shirt, shorts, sandals, bag at Prada (prada.com).
FRESHMEN FIVE: A lot of fashion’s excitement is coming from its emerging ranks, designers who are rewarded for charting their own path beyond the industry’s conventional borders. Keep your eye on Libero (a Toronto-based men’s-wear label), Elizaveta Rakhmankulova (a Montrealer with a graphic approach to minimalism), Hyke (Japan’s latest sartorial phenom), Literary Sport (a brand that creates running-inspired attire for on and off the track) and Julie Kegels (a Belgian who steals the spotlight on the Paris runways).
On Michael (left): Libero pinstripe wool jacket, polo, button-up shirt, pleated wool trousers through liberoworld.ca. Loewe suede loafers at Holt Renfrew (holtrenfrew.com). On Jessalynn (second from left): Elizaveta Rakhmankulova mini dress, crossbody fringe bag through elizavetarakhmankulova.com. Miu Miu satin sneakers at Holt Renfrew. Tights, stylist’s own. On Maya (centre): Hyke sheer blouse, striped skirt through hyke.jp. Issey Miyake x Camper leather slides at Gravity Pope (gravitypope.com). On Jack (second from right): Literary Sport jacket, tank top, T-shirt, trousers through literarysport.com. Shoes at Tom Ford (tomford.com). (On Ziwei, right) Julie Kegels upcycled military jacket, skirt, cut-out cardigan, shirt dress, sticker necklace through juliekegels.com. Shoes at Gravity Pope.

Image at top – On Maya (left): Jacket, skirt, blouse, earrings. On Jessalynn (centre) suit jacket, trousers, briefs, earrings, belt, purse, pumps. On Ziwei (right) jacket, skirt, briefs, earrings at Chanel (chanel.com).

Styling by Nadia Pizzimenti. Styling assistant: Raisa Berkowitz.

Makeup by Valéria Amirova for The Project. Hair by Steph George for P1M.ca. Manicures by Wendy Rorong for Sidia/Plutino Group. Makeup assistant: Olive Grey. Hair assistant: Racquelle Nembhard.

Models: Jessalynn Turpin and Maya Wallace at Next Canada; Ziwei Wong and Michael Kleiman at Want Management; Jack Stewart at Another Species.

Photo assistants: Judy Gu, Dalia Rahhal. Digital tech: Junsoo Lee.

Photographed at the Enoch Turner Schoolhouse in Toronto.

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